Introduction
Germany is often underrated as a European travel destination, especially by Americans who tend to favor France or Italy. On our recent trip we discovered a country rich in history, culture, and natural beauty—far more varied and compelling than many expect.
Historically, cities like Nuremberg were once among the most powerful centers in the Holy Roman Empire. The Bavarians played a decisive role during the Napoleonic era, and we encountered artifacts and ruins that date back a thousand years. Culturally, Germany has produced giants in music and science—Beethoven, Bach, Wagner, Brahms, Mendelssohn, Handel—and countless scholars and artisans whose work shaped modern life.
Nature here is spectacular: from dramatic mountain peaks to soft rolling countryside, the views were breathtaking at every turn. Over our whirlwind journey we crossed into Poland, Czechia, Austria, and France as well, visiting Saxon Switzerland National Park, Dresden, Munich, Garmisch-Partenkirchen (and Zugspitze), the Black Forest, Baden-Baden, Heidelberg, Nuremberg, Leipzig, and Berlin.
Quick note: LensRentals.com helped us with camera gear at the last minute, which made many of the photos possible. Their fast, friendly service saved the trip when a camera dial broke just before departure.
During long night drives I typed short accounts of each day. I meant to edit them later, but came home ill, so these are the raw notes from our sleepy drives. They retain the immediacy of travel—I hope you enjoy them.
You can use the table of contents below to skip to particular sections and tips.
Table of Contents
Thursday/Friday March 30–31
Gablenz
Poland, Rakotzbrücke, and Muskau Park
Our journey began with an overnight flight from New York to Berlin. We picked up a roomy van at the airport that made the drives comfortable for the kids. Berlin’s outskirts felt unusually tidy and quiet, then the countryside opened up into precise rows of birch and evergreens that felt almost orderly in a picturesque way.
We crossed briefly into Poland—marked by red-and-white road markers and painted trees—and the kids thought it looked like a fairy tale. A traffic stop by Polish police resulted in a fine and a story to tell, but it didn’t spoil the mood: soon sunlight after the rain turned everything golden.
Back in Germany we visited Rakotzbrücke (the Devil’s Bridge). Parking requires an app, so download and set up payment beforehand if you’re driving. Schloss Muskau surprised us in the best way: a misty moat, soft lights, and swans made for a magical evening walk. Our first German meal—schnitzel in a cozy restaurant—was a perfect end to the day before a restful night at a nearby bed and breakfast.
Saturday, April 1
Saxon Switzerland National Park
Including the Bastei Bridge
We drove to Saxon Switzerland and explored charming small towns en route—places that aren’t trying to be picturesque, they simply are. Bad Schandau led us to a trail touted as “the best 10K in the park.” Finding the trailhead proved harder than anticipated, so we opted to walk an additional couple of miles and enjoyed an exhilarating hike through forests, up stairs and ladders, and across constantly changing weather.
The Bastei Bridge at twilight was less crowded than expected, allowing us to wander the bridge and nearby fortress ruins in peace. Low-light photography turned out great, and a relaxed dinner wrapped up the day before a drive to Dresden.
Sunday, April 2
Dresden
The Zwinger Museum and Frauenkirche Dresden
Dresden felt unexpectedly quiet at night, but the next morning the city revealed its treasures. The Zwinger Palace’s porcelain and mathematics/physics exhibits were wonderful—even nearly empty rooms felt reverent and informative. With a Dresden Museum card we explored weapons and armor in Dresden Castle, then attended a Palm Sunday Mass at Frauenkirche before a short drive toward Munich.
German hot chocolate stood out as rich and less sweet than American versions—highly recommended.
Monday, April 3
Munich
BMW Welt, Olympic Park, Old Town Munich
We enjoyed a surprisingly excellent hotel breakfast and met Iris, who lived in the U.S. for decades. Munich itself was lively and historic: BMW Welt, Olympic Park, and the compact old town with cobblestone squares and grand buildings. I tried a self-guided scavenger app with the kids that fell short, but the walking tour of the city—the markets, the architecture, and the atmosphere—was delightful.
We finished the day with a short drive into Garmisch-Partenkirchen and settled into a spacious and affordable apartment for several nights.
Tuesday, April 4
Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Day 1
Zugspitze and Neuschwanstein Castle
Zugspitze is Germany’s highest peak. We debated going on a cloudy morning, but decided to ride the cable car—and burst through fog into brilliant blue skies at the summit. Skiing on the glacier was free once you paid the cable car fare; lift passes weren’t required, which made skiing affordable for our family. The summit views were unforgettable and we even stepped briefly into Austria from the peak.
After returning to the valley we drove to Neuschwanstein. The uphill walk from the parking area to the castle and then to Mary’s Bridge is steep but atmospheric. The castle is iconic and very popular; the interior tour felt rushed, but the exterior views and the hike were highlights.
Wednesday, April 5 — Our 20th Anniversary
Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Day 2
Rest, Recharge, and Lake Eibsee
We celebrated quietly with a coffee date and a slow five-mile walk around Lake Eibsee. Shopping for groceries and a relaxed evening at our apartment gave everyone a chance to recharge.
Maundy Thursday, April 6
The Black Forest
Triberg, The Black Forest High Road, Baden-Baden
We drove through scenic areas near Lake Constance and into the Black Forest. Triberg’s waterfalls and cuckoo-clock shops were a bit touristy, but Baden-Baden exceeded expectations. A Maundy Thursday service in the town square and a stroll among spring blooms made the evening romantic and peaceful.
Good Friday, April 7
Castles: The Panoramweg and Heidelberg
We wandered scenic paths in Baden-Baden and explored castle ruins that felt straight out of a fairy tale. Heidelberg Castle surprised us with its scale and craftsmanship: massive walls, evocative ruins, and a fascinating Pharmacy Museum. A brief scare when I misplaced my purse ended happily—the purse was exactly where I’d left it.
Saturday, April 8
Nuremberg
City of Empire Tours, Nazi Rally Grounds, Old Town
We took a guided Tour of Empires that traced Nuremberg’s role from the Holy Roman Empire through Napoleonic times to the Third Reich. Our guide, Elisabeth, was outstanding and the visit to the Nazi Rally Grounds was harrowing and educational. An unsettling interaction with a stranger at the train station required police assistance; it was a reminder that travel can include unexpected emotional moments. We ended the day with a drive to Leipzig.
Easter Sunday, April 9
Leipzig
Leipzig University, The Grassi Museum, Peterkirche, St. Nicholas Square
Church bells greeted the morning. We attended an English-language Easter service in Leipzig that was warm and welcoming. A self-guided city tour stretched into six hours as we explored markets, the Grassi Museum’s musical instruments exhibit, the Thomaskirche for a short Easter concert, and lively squares. Late that evening we drove back to Berlin.
Easter Monday, April 10
Berlin
Berlin Wall Memorial, Palace of Tears, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Rausch Chocolatier, Brandenburg Gate
Berlin left a strong emotional impression. We visited the Berlin Wall Memorial and the Palace of Tears, both powerful reminders of division and human cost. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is designed to unsettle and disorient, and it effectively conveys chaos, isolation, and loss. We also saw the Brandenburg Gate and enjoyed chocolate at Rausch. These sites prompted reflection about history and responsibility—Germany confronts its past in many visible ways.
Some Final Thoughts
Especially if you’re thinking of traveling to Germany
Demographics and Culture
Germany felt less diverse than the Washington, D.C. area where we live. People sometimes stared at our family—likely because a family of six is uncommon there. We found great conversations, too, especially in international churches and with locals who shared perspectives about history and daily life.
Rules and Practicalities
Germany is a rules-based country. Be prepared: keep tickets safe (lost tickets are rarely replaced), respect bike lanes, and expect strict parking enforcement. Download local parking apps, the German dictionary in Google Translate, and offline maps if you’re driving. If you rely on public transport, get the train and bus apps before you go.
Little Things We Loved
- Well-lit, safe garages and stairwells with motion sensors
- Excellent water pressure in showers
- Large windows that open widely
- Extensive, well-maintained bike paths
Bakeries and Bedding
Bakeries are exceptional—seriously world-class. Beds often use two twin mattresses pushed together with firm support; I slept better than I do at home.
Housekeeping Notes
Many apartments have washers but no dryers. Bathrooms are often roomy but kitchens smaller than American expectations. Smoking is more common than we expected, even indoors in some places.
Costs
Cheaper: groceries, toiletries, family and student discounts, many concerts, and lodging. More expensive: parking, gas, some museums (you may pay per wing), public restrooms, and bottled water at restaurants.
Bottom Line
Germany surprised and delighted us at nearly every turn. From dramatic landscapes and fairy-tale castles to vivid museums and honest historical memorials, it’s a destination worth exploring in depth. You will love Germany.
Best Travel Purchases
Lightweight down coat, an inexpensive camera sling to carry heavy gear comfortably, and packing cubes were all extremely useful for this trip.
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